| Our Design Tips for DIY Wedding Stationery and Wedding Crafts
Wedding Stationery Design TipTying a Perfect Bow: This is so simple yet works so well – make two loops in the ribbon (pointing upwards) with a little downward ‘loop in between. Simply tie these together as though you were tying a knot. Straighten the bow and resize as necessary
Wedding Stationery Design Tip
Printing on tracing paper or 'vellum'
• Tracing Paper or Vellum is less porous and comes out of the printer with the ink slightly wet. Make sure that you leave the tracing paper to dry for a few minutes before working with it again after printing.
• Try printing in bold to make the text appear darker
• Use the 'quick print' option to feed the paper through quicker and leave less ink on the page
Wedding Stationery Design TipFor printing in ‘gold’ or ‘silver’ use the following settings in the ‘custom colours’ of the document
• Gold: Red=192, Green=168, Blue=104
• Deeper Gold: Red=165, Green=138, Blue=82
• Silver: Red=151, Green=151, Blue=168
• Copper: Red=205, Green=115, Blue=0
Wedding Stationery Design TipUse easy to read fonts for your inserts - especially for orders of service.
Wedding Stationery Design TipMake sure your hands are clean - keep some wet wipes nearby just in case.
Wedding Stationery Design TipBe careful with drinks! The number of times we've tried to paint with coffee!
Wedding Stationery Design TipUse old boxes, tupperwares etc for glitters and beads.
Wedding Stationery Design TipStart with something simple and remember that depending on the occasion less can be more!
Wedding Stationery Design TipFor really funky wedding stationery don't be afraid to use unusual colours. By adding contrasting insert papers you can really jazz up your invitations, try bright pinks, blues and purples (remembering that you need to be able to read the text).
For funky DIY wedding stationery anything goes - think about things you have in common, use photographs of when you were small children (always guaranteed to raise a smile) or something that's just completely off the wall.
Try some unusual materials, scraps of fabric, buttons and coloured inks. Use stencils, stamps and punches to create unusual effects. If you are making your own wedding stationery then allow yourself plenty of time for experimenting.........most of all have fun!
Wedding Stationery Design TipPeel offs can be misunderstood - try colouring in some sections this can add detail and depth to any project.
Wedding Stationery Design TipStruggling with a design? Sleep on it! It's amazing how the solution appears when you view it with fresh eyes.
Wedding Stationery Design TipIf you have lots of invitations to make think of a way of doing it in a way that won't take loads of time and is replicable without making you hate your wedding theme!!!!! Simple and Elegant is often a good idea.
(Tip supplied by Sarah Jones)
Wedding Stationery Design TipIf you want to use outliners to write text but don't think you have the talent .. think again! Choose a font you like, (the funkier the better), size the text to fill the space well and print your chosen word/words eg. 'Wedding' in a very pale grey on your card blank. Now, once you have the outliner flowing well, follow the lines and finish with a dusting of micro glitter (see our EM43 and EM44) for a professional and eye catching invitation.
This principal can be applied with any pattern you like either by tracing it directly onto your card or by scanning in an image which you size appropriately before printing on your card blank, in pale grey, as before.
A Step-by-Step Guide to using Outliners and a Glass Painting and Outliner Tutorial
1. Depending on the make of outliner check there is not a seal that needs piercing. If there is one this will be located at the neck of the tube, only visible when the nozzle has been unscrewed. This is most commonly found on the soft metal 'body' outliners.
2. If you are using outliners with a plastic 'body' store them pointing downwards (often their lids are designed with this in mind), this helps prevent 'spluttering' when air is trying to escape as you squeeze the tube.)
3. If you are using outliners with a soft metal 'body' try to have only one pressure point. Once the seal is broken and the lid is off every different point of pressure may well 'suck' air in creating the most unwelcome air pockets that go 'splat' when you least expect it! Resting the tube across your fingers and depressing your thumb on to it will provide all the pressure you need. Roll the tube up a little at a time as you work to maintain pressure.
4. A typical complaint with metal 'body' outliners is 'it won't stop coming out!!!' Remember it is you that controls the outliner not the other way round! To stem a constant flow of outliner gently 'tweak' the sides of the tube (if you've been pressing on the top of the tube), this causes a slight vacuum and the outliner will retract .. not too hard mind, as this could cause an air bubble.
5. Whatever outliner you are using the key is practice and more practice! I guarantee that you will surprise yourself with the results
6. Firstly get some plain paper and, pressing very gently, see how easy or difficult it is to get the outliner to come out. Simply do dots, lots of dots and when you can control it so you can make a row of dots the same size try a line.
7. Lines can be tricky as too fast .. they break up, too slow and you have some sort of lumpy snake crawling across your paper! Remember you are in control and you will quickly learn to move your hand at the correct speed to create a thin but straight 'ish' line.
8. A very important tip at this time is to always work away from yourself. That probably sounds odd but if you try to draw a line or shape towards yourself your elbow can be restricted by your body or a chair arm etc. resulting in an overworked 'juddery' flow of outliner. If you use the backward movement of your wrist to 'pull' the flow of outliner away from you, you will have nothing restricting your movement.
9. This now invites another gem of information .. move whatever it is you are outlining about .. not yourself. Once you have a comfortable working position, stay in it, stop and start the outliner whenever you sense you are at the edge of control. Remember a word, a design, a shape can always be broken down into a system of 'steps' allowing you to reposition your work whilst always remaining comfortable and in control.
10. Never go beyond 180°! I mean by that, if you are outlining a circle work from 6 o'clock to 12 o'clock then stop, turn your card or object round and repeat the same action. If you try to complete a circle in one go you will be working back towards yourself and the nozzle will create tram lines directly through the outliner as it comes out.
11. If your are outlining your invitations and your design is complex, or you repeatedly find you are smudging the outliner as you work, do a little at a time allowing each stage to dry before doing the next bit. If you have a production line going by the time you have finished the first part of invitation number 50, invitation number 1 will be dry for you to do the next bit. Another tip is to accept that when you stop and start outlining you cannot help but get a slight 'blob'. Use this to your advantage and plan your 'stops and starts' so that blobs occur in corners or at junctions, believe me you will be able to disguise them. Similarly if you have leaves or floral elements within your wedding invitation designs work from the bottom of your leaf/petal to the top, stop and repeat. With a bit of practice that bottom to top flourish will result in a lovely pointed leaf with the initial blobs hidden at the stem end.
12. Roll your sleeves up! I have seen too many people ruin the cuffs of a lovely jumper or jacket by having a full-on first time experience with outliner!
13. Don't be disheartened, remember you could use tiny dots to make your pattern or (using a cheap tightly formed bath sponge) you can create sponged edging or stencil designs) I would only really recommend sponging on glass or on the edges of card blanks due to the liquid content of the outliners. Even the most experienced of outliners use templates. This can be in the form of templates behind glass, tracing onto card blanks, pale printing as a guide on card blanks or the use of a light box. A light box will not penetrate all boards so please feel free to ask our advice if buying board with the intention of using a light box.
14. If you are learning about how to use outliners with a view to glass painting a useful tip is to always keep part of the glass object in contact with the table. When you are nervous it is very likely that you will hunch up a bit, holding the glass close to you, thus preventing any freedom of movement at all. Rest the object on the table and when required manipulate it so you are always comfortable and you are always working away from yourself.
15. Glitter is forgiving, eye-catching, versatile, wonderful stuff, if you are not confident with outliner on its own sprinkle some on or try our accent beads BD21 for beautiful wedding invitations, cards or non dishwasher glassware.
16. You can use outliner as a ‘glue' for accent beads, sequins, glitter or to prevent fraying edges of papers or material. It is a beautiful way to write text and truly represents all that is wonderful about handmade invitations or cards in general. Glitter outliners really cut out the middle-man and metallic outliners work beautifully with stylish boards and contemporary wedding themes.
17. Outlining is one of those skills that people admire because once they have tried it they realise it's not just like 'writing'. With practice, patience and the advice set out above it's an eye catching and versatile skill that is easily in reach of anyone. You don't have to be naturally 'arty' and it doesn't matter if you have fingers like bananas! Systematic planning of your design breaks it down into a list of 'procedures' it is only when you have finished do you stand back and think .. I did that!
if you have any design ideas or tips that you'd like to share then please contact us